The Basilica of Santa Prassede

Standing near the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore (take the street opposite, on the right-hand side of the square), the church of Santa Prassede is one of our favourite churches for its charm and the beauty of its 9th-century mosaics.

Getting there : Metro Termini, Cavour or Vittorio Emanuele station, or bus lines 16, 70, 71, 75, 360…

Address : Via di Santa Prassede (access from Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore)

Opening hours : open every day from 9:00 to 12:30 and from 15:00 to 18:00.

Ticket prices: free admission.

The Basilica of Santa Prassede was built under the pontificate of Paschal I in the 9th century, on the site of a previous place of worship, a church or a Roman patrician house (which often included a room devoted to worship). On this occasion the pope had the remains of 2,000 martyrs transferred. A stone plaque marks the place where they rest.

Although largely remodelled over time, the basilica structure with three aisles remains.

Entry to Santa Prassede is through a small medieval portico, which gives access to the central nave and the mosaics of the triumphal arches and the apse. These superb mosaics were made by Byzantine artists in the 9th century. On the first triumphal arch is shown the Heavenly Jerusalem, surrounded by walls; outside, the elect wait to enter.

The second triumphal arch, of the apse, shows the 24 elders of the Apocalypse offering golden crowns to the Lamb.
The mosaic of the apse is devoted to Saint Praxedes and Saint Pudentiana, who are said to have taken in the apostle Peter in their house. As they rise to heaven they are welcomed by the apostles Peter and Paul, who lead them to Christ, shown at the centre. The remaining figures are, on the left, Pope Paschal, holding in his hands a miniature of the church. He is surrounded by a square nimbus, a sign that he was alive at the time of the depiction. On the other side is Saint Zeno, to whom the chapel in the right aisle is dedicated.

The Chapel of Saint Zeno houses the tomb of the mother of Pope Paschal I. This chapel is remarkable for its medieval structure, still intact. Superb mosaics cover the walls of the chapel.

Christ is shown at the top of the vault, supported by angels. The apostles John, Andrew and James are also depicted, as is Pope Paschal. The polychrome marble floor is also remarkable and one of the oldest known.

Finally, this chapel houses a fragment of the column to which Christ is said to have been bound for the Flagellation.