Palazzo Altemps
Palazzo Altemps stands beside Piazza Navona, at its northern end.
Getting there: In the heart of Rome, it is best reached on foot or by bus; many bus lines pass nearby (70, 81, 87, 116, 492, 628, etc.)
Address: Via di Sant'Apollinare, 46
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 to 19:00 (last entry 1 hour before). Closed on Mondays.
Ticket prices: Purchase of the combined ticket is compulsory. It covers the four sites of the National Roman Museum: Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, the Crypta Balbi and the Baths of Diocletian. It is valid for one week from the day of first use. €15 full price, €2 reduced rate (ages 18 to 25, EU citizens) and free for under-18s who are EU citizens. It is valid for 7 days from the day of first use.
Palazzo Altemps forms part of the National Roman Museum. Official website
This magnificent Renaissance palace houses very fine ancient sculptures, including pieces from the Ludovisi and Mattei collections.
Construction of the palace began at the end of the 15th century for Girolamo Riario, a nephew of Pope Sixtus IV.
The palace changed hands in 1568, bought by Cardinal Altemps, from whom it takes its name.
The palace was embellished at this time; the belvedere (which forms the corner tower) with the obelisks was added by the architect Martino Longhi. The palace also acquired a rich library, now in the Vatican.
On the corner tower you can also see the coat of arms of the Altemps family, a rearing ibex.
Inside Palazzo Altemps, as you enter you will discover a very fine courtyard containing several statues from the Altemps collection and a fountain decorated with mosaics and shells.
Upstairs you will pass through the loggia decorated with vegetal frescoes and a collection of busts of emperors from the Ludovisi collection.
Some rooms are still decorated with frescoes and painted ceilings that recall the splendour of the place in the Renaissance. A very fine fireplace adorned with the Altemps ibex can also be seen.
The palace houses a superb private chapel, decorated in the Baroque style and containing the relics of Saint Anicetus.
In the various rooms are also exhibited the ancient statues of the celebrated Ludovisi collection. Among the most famous you will find:
The Ludovisi Throne, which depicts the birth of Aphrodite, rising from the water, surrounded by two women who cover her with a veil. On the sides are carved a flute player and a priestess.
The palace houses a superb private chapel, decorated in the Baroque style and containing the relics of Saint Anicetus.
The Ludovisi Ares represents the god of war, seated, his arms around his knee, sword in hand and the rest of his equipment beside him.
The Ludovisi sarcophagus is adorned with sculptures of combats between Romans and barbarians whose realism is striking.
The Suicide of the Gaul is probably the best-known piece.
The Galatian chief is shown after a battle lost against King Attalus of Pergamon.
Fleeing, he prefers to kill his wife and take his own life rather than fall into enemy hands.
The sculpture shows him with his head turned towards his pursuers, driving his sword into his chest while supporting his dying wife.
To learn more about the Suicide of the Gaul.
Note that these sculptures were for the most part restored and altered between the 16th and 18th centuries, which was common practice at the time. Labels indicate the parts concerned.